i flaked

Oops, so it looks like it's been about 2+ weeks since I last wrote anything. I wish I could say it's been because I've been cooking so much that there isn't time to catch up. Rather, I've been at the restaurant many many hours a week and have been impressively lazy during my little bit of time off. I've been sitting in this sunny living room room, playing with the dog in the backyard and reading too many cooking magazines-- I've been neglecting the actual cooking part of things.

Nonetheless, I do have a recipe to post that I made about a week or so ago. Ok, I lied, it was probably two weeks ago at this point. It was a recipe I found early in the summer but need to wait for a slightly fall-ish day to make. So at the first inkling of a chill in the air I got to it. Fortunately, it was as tasty as the recipe makes it seem like it would be. Sort of like broth, filled with dumplings, minus the dumpling skin and plus cabbage. Can you keep up with the math? Even if you can't, the recipe is pretty simple. For your early fall pleasure, I present, Lion's Head Casserole. Rumor has it this a fancy dish for a Chinese Banquet dinner, but if you ask me, it's just a good bowl of early fall... in China... not that I've ever been.

Lion's Head Casserole
adapted from, Gourmet, May 2007
8 large dried shiitake mushrooms (3/4 ounces)*
2 cups boiling-hot water
1 pound ground pork butt (not lean)
1 large bunch scallions (white and pale green parts only), finely chopped
6 large fresh water chestnuts, peeled and finely chopped, or 10 canned whole water chestnuts, rinsed, drained, and finely chopped
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine (preferably Shaoxing) or medium-dry Sherry
2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
1 (2 1/2- to 3-pound) head Napa cabbage
2/3 cup peanut or vegetable oil
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (16 fluid ounces)

1) Cover mushrooms with boiling-hot water (2 cups) in a bowl and let stand 30 minutes, then squeeze excess water from mushrooms and reserve 1 cup mushroom-soaking liquid (discard remainder or reserve for another use). Discard mushroom stems and cut caps into very thin slices.**
2) Meanwhile, mix together pork, scallions, water chestnuts, rice wine, sesame oil, sugar, 1 tablespoon ginger, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a large bowl with your hands. Gather together pork mixture and throw against bottom or side of bowl 5 or 6 times to firm texture, then chill, covered, until ready to use. This likely won't get as firm as you want it to, but don't lose faith!
3) Remove and reserve 4 large cabbage leaves. Halve cabbage head lengthwise, then cut out and discard core. Cut cabbage halves crosswise into 2-inch-wide pieces.
4)Heat wok (or large skillet) over high heat until a drop of water evaporates instantly. Swirl 2 tablespoons peanut oil to coat bottom and sides of wok, then stir-fry half of cabbage, and remaining tablespoon ginger until cabbage begins to wilt, 1 to 2 minutes. Add remaining cabbage and 3/4 teaspoon salt and stir-fry until all of cabbage has begun to wilt, about 3 minutes. Add reserved soaking liquid (1 cup) and continue stir-frying until cabbage is wilted, about 3 minutes. Transfer mixture to a 4-quart clay pot or a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot, arranging evenly on bottom. Wipe wok clean with paper towels.
5) Stir together cornstarch, pepper, and remaining tablespoon soy sauce in a small bowl until smooth.
6) Divide pork mixture into quarters, then coat your hands with some of cornstarch mixture. Form 4 large meatballs, transferring each as formed to a large plate and then recoating your hands.
7) Heat wok over high heat until a drop of water evaporates instantly, then pour in remaining peanut oil (enough to measure a scant 1/4 inch in wok). Reduce heat to moderately high and gently arrange meatballs in wok. Fry meatballs, turning gently with tongs or a slotted spoon, until deep golden on all sides, about 5 minutes total (if meatballs stick to wok, add more oil). 8) Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain, then arrange on top of cabbage in pot. Add broth, then cover meatballs completely with reserved 4 cabbage leaves. Bring liquid just to a boil, then reduce heat and gently simmer, covered, 1 hour. (Check occasionally to be sure liquid is not boiling vigorously.)
8) Season broth with salt, then move large cabbage leaves around side of pot to resemble a lion's mane (don't be too literal). Serve in individual shallow bowls.

*I didn't have tried shiitake and instead used italian dried mixed mushrooms, which were mostly porcini.
**I reserved only the mushroom water, discarding the mushrooms entirely. This was for two reasons: first, I had the wrong kind of mushrooms and second, I don't really like mushrooms. If you do and wish to reserve them add them to the pot when you add the first round of cabbage.

A not so suiting soup

This weekend marked the official end of summer. Looking around I see nothing to indicate this as truth. I just ate the juiciest nectarine yet this year. Mosquitos are definitely still hanging around (particularly my ankles, but that’s another story). And Monday, at the parade everyone seemed rather comfortable in their semi-nudity.

Nonetheless, something in my soul told me it was time for chili. Actually, it wasn’t my soul, that’s a lie. It was the hunky fireman in the supermarket the other day who bellowed in a deep grumbly voice to a friend “Hey, let’s get some shredded cheese for the chili. That’ll look nice”. Ok wait? More importantly than the fact that this dude was making chili in 85 degree heat was the fact that he was concerned with the proper garnish for his season-incongruous soup. I sorta loved him. So, I figured what better way to express my admiration for the manly Martha in him, than by making some chili myself. Don’t worry, I didn’t tell him I was inspired. I simply stole his ideal.

Like a couple other recipes on here, this one I made up as I went along. I was largely inspired by the fairly comprehensive Mexican aisle at the local market. I knew I wanted to have a number of condiments to be able to play with and then just make a pretty standard chili. It required a fair bit of tinkering and a remarkable lack of precision, but I must say, the finished product was nothing to scoff at. In fact, I would go so far as to say it was mighty fine-- though I must confess, I’m fairly curious to know what the fireman’s chili tasted like.

As a side note, I had been planning to make pulled pork this day. After changing my mind I accidentally still took home a bag of coleslaw mix. I decided to Mexicanify it. Recipe for that follows as well.

The Un-Fireman Chili
1.5-2lbs ground beef
1 28oz can diced tomatoes
2 T tomato paste
2 15oz cans red kidney beans, drained
1 green pepper, coarse chopped
1 yellow onion, coarse chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 T chile powder
1 T oregano
1 t cumin
1 t coriander
1/2 t cayenne
2 bay leaves
2 T pickled jalapeno peppers, minced, brine reserved
2 T olive oil
Garnish: Mexican crema, cotija (dried crumbly white cheese), cilantro, lime, white onion, rice, hot suace

1) Heat oil over medium high heat in large pot. Add ground beef and cook until browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove beef from pot and set aside. Drain some fat from pan, leaving about 2-3 tablespoons.
2) Add onion, garlic, pepper and jalapeno and allow vegetables to sweat and soften slightly, approximately 5 minutes.
3) Add all spices, 2 T of tomato paste and bay leaves, stirring to coat veggies well. Cook until aromatic, about 5 minutes.
4) Add diced tomatoes and some of the jalapeno brine (to taste) and simmer for 3 minutes.
5) Return meat to pan, add beans as well. If it looks dry add 1/2 cup of water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and partially cover.
6) Simmer on the lowest possible heat for as long as you have patience for, but at least 30 minutes. Add water as necessary if it looks dry, though it should definitely be thick.
6-8 servings

Mexican-ish Coleslaw
1 16oz package shredded coleslaw mix
2 T mayonnaise
2 T rice wine vinegar
1/4 chopped cilantro
2 T pickled jalapeno, minced
1 T lime juice

1) Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Mix well. Allow to sit for at least 20 minutes in the fridge to let flavors mingle.
4-6 servings