Sometimes, when you’re having one of those days when it seems your stars simply aren’t aligning or you’re just feeling awfully grumpy, it’s important to escape. Whether it’s to the park or to the movies, you have to get away. For me, when I need to clear my head, I go to Italy... because that’s how I roll. Sadly, yesterday, when I called my personal assistant she informed me that she could find no first-class tickets to Rome and I simply won’t travel any other way. So, I told her to mind her back, another slip up like this and she might find herself without a job.
In the mean time, I decided the next best thing would be to eat and drink as if I was there. In the afternoon, my unpleasant moodiness precluded my ability/desire to cook lunch. Instead, I went to the local salumeria and bought some goodies-- all I had to do was assemble. After a good little wander around I returned with some prosciutto di parma (thinly sliced so it almost melts on your tongue), piave vecchio (a favorite Italian cheese, at once nutty and salty), some cracked green olives and artichoke hearts (both cured at the shop) and a jar of pepperoncini. Set out on a nice little dish they made for perfect effortless afternoon nibbling.
By the time evening rolled around I got myself motivated enough to cook some dinner. Back out to my favorite markets I went. Meditatively meandering from fish shop to vegetable market with a quick stop back at the salumeria, dinner began to slowly take shape. I decided on a menu of Black Taglierini with Baby Clams, Flounder with a Lemon-Garlic Sauce, and Broccoli Rabe with shaved Piave. This is the kind of cooking I am most comfortable with, seeing as I was Italian in my previous life (in case you wondering, in the life before that I was Indian, but am not yet as comfortable with Indian cooking), and as such I more or less did not use any recipes.
The squid ink in the pasta contributed a wonderful briney-ness that the clams compliment perfectly. Some white wine, tomato and chile tied the whole thing together while still letting the oceany flavors of the dish shine through. The flounder was simple, summery and light-- though next time I would cook it a couple minutes less. Lastly, the broccoli rabe (a favorite veggie of mine) was really enlivened by some of the nutty cheese, which also contributed to a lovely texture. A thoroughly satisfying meal, and today with a lesser pout on my lips, I look forward to leftover fish and broccoli rabe for lunch.
You’ll have to bear with me through my write-up of my recipes, as this is a first for me. The good news is, in general, this type of cooking is rather forgiving. So have fun with it, play a little, taste as you go and most importantly, sip a glass of cold Gavi while you cook-- that always makes things a little bit better. And if all else fails, sit down with some Chocolate Raspberry Ice Cream and wallow in it. But tomorrow, you’d better wake up with a better attitude, jerky!
Black Taglierini with Baby Clams
1/2 lb squid ink pasta, cooked al dente in water that tastes like the sea
1 lb baby clams (New Zealand Cockles, if possible), clean and rinsed
1 28oz can of San Marzano tomatoes, drained and chopped
6 whole dried chile peppers or 1 t dried chile flakes
1 small onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/4 dry white wine
1 T heavy cream
3 T extra virgin olive oil
1) Add olive oil to 10” saucepan over medium-high heat. Saute onions until softened slightly, about 4 minutes. Add garlic and chile, cook until aromatic about 2 minutes. Add tomatoes, stirring so flavors are incorporated. Lower heat and let simmer for 5 minutes. If the pan looks a little dry feel free to add a splash of chicken stock, though this is intended to be a pretty light sauce.
2) Add white wine and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Allow some of the alcohol to cook off for a few minutes. Add clams and cover pan until all clams open, about 4 to 6 minutes.
3) Pick out any closed clams and the chiles if you used whole ones. Add a swirl of heavy cream and stir in. Remove from heat and pour over pasta. Serve immediately.
serves 2
Broccoli Rabe with Piave
1 bunch Broccoli Rabe, rinsed, bottom inch cut off, rest cut in half
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 T extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup grated Piave Vecchio
1) Bring a big pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Add broccoli and cook for 2 minutes. Drain immediately and submerge in a bowl of ice water to stop cooking.
2) Add olive oil to a large skilled over medium heat. Add garlic, cook for 1 minute, do not let it brown. Add the broccoli, toss around so oil coats all, lower heat and cover. Cook just long enough to let it heat through, tossing as necessary, approximately 3 minutes.
3) Place broccoli in serving dish and top with grated cheese.
Serves 4
Flounder with Lemon-Garlic Sauce
adapted from, How to Cook Everything
1 1/2 lb flounder or other white fish
1 t minced garlic
1/3 cup minced parsley
1/4 fresh lemon juice
Salt and Pepper
1) Preheat broiler. Get rack as close to heat source as you can.
2) Combine oil, garlic, lemon and parsley in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper
3) Line baking sheet with tin foil, lay fillets on it and brush generously with olive oil mixture.
4) Broil fish for 2 to 4 minutes (without turning).
5) Serve with fish with lemon wedges and the remaining olive oil mixture.
Serves 4
3 comments:
All these fancy dishes of squid ink and lemon-garlic sauces sound amazing, but I just have one question: when can we take the melty prosciutto and nutty cheese on a trip up to Portsmouth? It's just begging for a vacation up north.
It sounds like you have some amazing markets in your area!
It's amazing food shopping out here-- one of the great perks of Astoria. It's so ethnically diverse and everyone has to be able to get their own ingredients. Makes for some excellent shopping. Come out some time, I can give you a tour of all my favorite markets :)
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